Seoul is

 Seoul is renowned for its magnificent palaces and royal heritage. However, beyond those grand sites lie countless alleys and neighborhoods filled with the lives of ordinary people and artists. The aged walls, old hanok houses, small markets, and traces of art reveal a more intimate, human side of Seoul, distinct from its royal persona. Below are several recommended spots to discover these old alleys, hanoks, and paths past artists once walked.




1. Seochon (西村)

  • Location: West of Gyeongbokgung Palace (Tongin-dong, Nuha-dong, Ok-in-dong, etc.)

  • Features
    • During the Joseon Dynasty, Seochon was home primarily to the middle class and commoners, giving it a more modest and laid-back atmosphere than other areas (like Bukchon).
    • In the 20th century, numerous writers and artists—including Yi Sang, Yun Dong-Ju, and Park No-su—lived or worked here, leaving remnants of their presence throughout the neighborhood’s alleyways.

  • Key Highlights
    • Yi Sang’s House: A restored and refurbished site of the famous modernist poet Yi Sang’s former residence, now featuring literary exhibits and small cultural events.
    • Park No-su Art Museum: Perched on a hillside in Seochon, the former home of artist Park No-su includes a tranquil hanok garden where visitors can appreciate his works.
    • Tongin Market: A traditional market best known for its “fried tteokbokki.” Visitors can experience down-to-earth local food and the everyday atmosphere of the neighborhood.



2. Bukchon (北村)

  • Location: Between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces (Gaheo-dong, Samcheong-dong, Gye-dong, etc.)

  • Features
    • Though widely known as a urban hanok village, Bukchon was not exclusively a royal district; it housed various social classes throughout history.
    • In modern times, intellectuals and artists have lived here, converting hanoks into studios or living spaces.

  • Key Highlights
    • Bukchon Hanok Village Alleys: Though it can get crowded, venturing deeper into the smaller lanes reveals the quaint charm of everyday hanok life.
    • Baek In-je House: A prime example of a modern hanok owned by a wealthy family rather than royals, providing insight into civilian upper-class living during the period.



3. Insadong (仁寺洞)

  • Location: The area around Gwanhun-dong and Gyeonji-dong in Jongno, stretching from Tapgol Park to Jogyesa Temple

  • Features
    • Insadong developed organically into a district for antiquities and traditional arts, with shops selling ceramics, calligraphy, and other vintage treasures.
    • Traditional hanok structures and contemporary buildings mingle to form a distinctive scenery, where visitors can easily find handicraft shops, hanji (traditional paper) workshops, and teahouses.

  • Key Highlights
    • Antique Shops & Galleries: Browse a range of old calligraphy and pottery to get a sense of Korea’s artistic heritage.
    • Traditional Teahouses & Restaurants: Experience Korea’s tea culture and sampling of local sweets, once beloved by common folk.


4. Pimatgol (避馬골)

  • Location: The Jongno area (near Jonggak Station)
  • Origin of the Name: “Pimat” (避馬) means “avoiding horses,” referring to the narrow back alleys where commoners would dodge noblemen riding on horseback.

  • Features
    • Lined with simple eateries and old taverns, these alleyways long embodied the rustic food culture of ordinary Seoul residents.
    • Although much of the original landscape has been lost to redevelopment, a few spots still preserve the authentic atmosphere of bygone days.

5. Namsangol Hanok Village

  • Location: Around Toegye-ro 34-gil in Jung-gu (near the base of Namsan Mountain)
  • Features
    • A cluster of five traditional houses from various parts of Seoul, relocated and restored in one location. Unlike palaces, these buildings represent the real living conditions of commoners, middle-class families, and lower nobility.
    • Visitors can participate in folk performances, traditional weddings, and cultural craft programs, making this spot popular among families.


6. Following in the Footsteps of Artists — Literary Museums & Memorials

  • Yun Dong-ju Literature Museum (in Cheongun-dong)
    • A repurposed water pumping station turned exhibition space, dedicated to the life and works of the poet Yun Dong-ju during the Japanese colonial period.
    • Situated near Seochon, it offers insight into both his poetry and the broader historical context of his era.

  • Yi Sang’s House (in Tongin-dong)
    • A small museum and event venue on the site of modernist poet Yi Sang’s former home.
    • Against the backdrop of Seochon’s alleys, it evokes the daily life and creative environment of 1930s Korean literati.


7. Donuimun Museum Village

  • Location: Shinmun-ro 2-ga in Jongno (between Gyeonghuigung Palace and Seodaemun)
  • Features
    • A “living museum” preserving and recreating old Seoul homes and shops.
    • Visitors can step into the look and feel of 1970s–80s Seoul alleyways, explore small exhibition halls, and take part in craft workshops.
  • Significance
    • A rare opportunity to observe the everyday lives of urban commoners in modern Seoul, treasured by older generations who recall their youth in these neighborhoods.




In Conclusion

When you venture beyond Seoul’s grand palaces and delve into its backstreets, you’ll discover the city as it was experienced by ordinary citizens and artists—the real Seoul beneath its royal veneer. Narrow alleyways, vintage hanoks, bustling traditional markets, and the footprints of creators from decades past intermingle with the city’s modern skyline, forming a uniquely memorable travel experience.

Whether strolling through Seochon and Bukchon, exploring Insadong and Pimatgol, or visiting Namsangol Hanok Village and Donuimun Museum Village, you’ll see firsthand how the everyday life of old Seoul continues to thrive in these precious locales. Take time to wander each alley and listen to the stories inscribed on every building and path. There, you’ll encounter another side of Seoul—sincere, human, and deeply connected to its cultural roots.

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